Frequently Asked Questions

• Who do I call after hours?

  Use the same process as your normal maintenance requests. We have people monitoring these accounts constantly.

• What is the process for emergency maintenance requests?

  If we receive an emergency maintenance request, we will immediately dispatch a vendor and have the work completed. Emergency maintenance requests are defined as:

  • No Utilities (electric, water, HVAC – temperature dependent)
  • Flooding
  • Significant storm damage
  • Significant threat to life, health, safety

• How do I see the progress of my maintenance requests?

  Residents with access to an official Maintenance Portal can view updates on work orders and electronically communicate with our centralized Maintenance Team. In other cases, Residents should contact the office for work order updates.

• How long does it typically take to schedule a vendor for a maintenance request?

  Depending on the situation, we may first have to call for homeowner approval. We contact homeowners as quickly as possible and provide them with all available information. Once we have homeowner approval, a vendor is dispatched to diagnose and fix the issue at your home.

• Does the owner pay for every maintenance request?

  No. Accidents happen. Your child might clog up the toilet with a toy or maybe you have a pet that damaged the carpet. No problem. We understand! We evaluate each invoice and situation to determine if it is the owner’s responsibility or a tenant’s responsibility to pay for the maintenance work.

• If I have to pay for maintenance, how can I do that?

  You can pay via your rent payment portal or by the office

• What are my options for communications?

  Residents with access to an official Maintenance Portal may receive maintenance communications via email, phone or text messages. When you log into your portal, you can choose to opt-in or out of text messages. We will also message you in the portal to provide updates on your work orders. In other cases, Residents should contact their local office to provide their preference for official communication.

• What does your Resident Benefit Package include?

  Resident Benefit Package Flyer

• I lost power or need to reset the circuit breaker

  A circuit breaker provides protection by stopping the flow of electricity if an overload or fault occurs. When an electrical fault occurs or the load on your circuit becomes too great, the breaker on that circuit trips and interrupts the flow of current to that circuit. A tripped circuit breaker is still sometimes referred to as a "blown fuse" in reference to the older technology that circuit breakers replaced. If your home uses an actual fuse and not a circuit breaker, click here for information on fuse boxes.

  Before electricity can be restored, the circuit breaker must be reset. However, even before you do that, you must take steps to ensure that it is safe to do so. Turn off or unplug all of the devices that are plugged into the circuit. Make certain no dangerous condition exists before restoring power. A Circuit Breaker which has been tripped will either be in the middle or "OFF" position. Locate the tripped circuit breaker and reset it by pushing it all the way to the "OFF" position and then back to the "ON" position. Often when you can't cannot reset the circuit breaker, it is because it must be turned all the way to the "Off" position first.

  Electricity should now be restored to the circuit. If the circuit breaker trips again before you have turned anything on or plugged anything in, please submit a maintenance request to First Rate Property Management immediately.
  
  If no circuit breakers were tripped and you still do not have power at an outlet, the circuit is probably on a GFCI.

• I lost power to the bathroom, kitchen, or outside

  A GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) outlet is a device that adds a greater level of safety by reducing the risk of electric shock in locations such as bathrooms, kitchens, laundry rooms and outdoors.

  A GFCI outlet may be wired in a branch circuit, which means other outlets and electrical devices may share the same circuit and breaker (or fuse). When a properly wired GFCI trips, the other devices down the line from it will also lose power. Note that devices on the circuit that come before the GFCI are not protected and are not affected when the GFCI is tripped.
  
  If you have an outlet that doesn't work, and the breaker is not tripped, look for a GFCI outlet which may have tripped. The non-working outlet may be down line from a GFCI outlet. Note that the affected outlets may not be located near the GFCI outlet, they may be several rooms away or even on a different floor. Pressing the "Reset" will restore the circuit. If the outlet doesn't reset, then whichever appliance that is causing it to trip, may still be plugged in. If after unplugging everything, checking the circuit breaker or fuse, and resetting the GFCI does not work, please submit a maintenance request to First Rate Property Management right away.

• Checking for a blown fuse

  If you have an older home, you may have fuses as opposed to circuit breakers. Located inside or outside of your home is a fuse box that contains a fuse for each of your home's circuits. A fuse provides protection for each of your circuits. When an electrical short occurs or the load on your circuit becomes too great, the fuse on that circuit burns out and breaks the circuit; this is what is referred to as a "blown fuse".
  
  Before electricity can be restored, the fuse must be replaced with a new fuse. However, even before you replace the fuse, you must take steps to ensure that it is safe to do so:

  • Turn off or unplug all of the devices that are plugged into the circuit. Make certain that no dangerous condition exists before restoring power.
  • Replace the fuse with a fuse that is of the proper rating for the circuit. For instance, if the circuit is rated for 15 amps, use a 15-amp fuse. Never use anything other than a fuse of proper rating.
  • When removing or inserting a new fuse, NEVER touch the metal parts of the fuse. If your fuse box is equipped with a master switch to cut power to the fuse box, cut the main power prior to replacing the fuse.

  
  
  Electricity should now be restored to the circuit. If the fuse blows again before you have turned anything on or plugged anything in, submit a maintenance request to First Rate Property Management right away.
  
  If the fuse blows after plugging in or turning on a device, that device may have a short or may be placing too much of a load on the circuit.
  
  If no fuses were blown and you still do not have power at an outlet, make certain that the switch, if any, that controls the outlet is turned on. If you can find no problem, the outlet, switch, wiring or some other component may be at fault. Also, the outlet may be on a GFCI branch circuit.

• Troubleshooting garbage disposal issues

  Follow this link to troubleshoot various issues: https://www.hometips.com/repair-fix/garbage-disposal-problems.html

  Disposal not working, no noise:	Use the disposal’s reset button on the underside. Check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker. If plug-in type, check GFI outlet. See “I lost power to bathroom, kitchen, or outside” on our Maintenance FAQ list above.
  Disposal hums or is jammed:	See “How to unjam my garbage disposal”. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0OByRuoYM0
  Disposal grinds poorly:	Make sure you’re running enough water while operating, and that you’re not grinding materials you shouldn’t. Do not grind overly fibrous materials, bones, or coffee grounds or such materials as glass, metal, or rubber. If these items are used in your garbage disposal, they can be cleared by a FRPM tech, but it will be at the tenant’s charge. If you can hear the disposal running but not grinding, the blades may be broken. Please submit a work order to First Rate Property Management.

• What do I do if I smell gas in the house?

  Immediately leave the home and call 911 or Intermountain Gas

  If safe to do so, proceed with the following:

  • Turn off all electrical appliances

  Don’t operate any electrical switches or create any flames - this includes flicking on a light switch. Make sure you’ve turned off the oven and fireplace as well.

  • Ventilate the property 

  Open windows and external doors immediately to allow the escape the premises.

  • Turn gas off at shutoff or meter if safe to do so

  To switch off the gas, locate the shutoff or meter and turn the lever so it's at 90 degrees to the gas pipe, closing the valve. We always suggest finding these important locations when first moving in.

  • Tell the neighbors 

  Let your neighbors know if you think they may be affected by the leak – it’s better to be safe than sorry!

  • Wait for the all clear 

  If you’ve evacuated the premises, don’t let anyone other than the engineer back into the property. Wait to be given the all clear before going back inside. If you feel unwell, it's best to visit your health clinic or hospital. Let them know about the gas leak so they can treat you accordingly.

• How do I light the pilot light on a gas fireplace?

  Turning On the Gas Supply

  Remove the decorative cover of the fireplace to reveal the gas controls at the bottom of the unit, near the floor. You should see a gas shut-off valve. Turn the handle parallel to the direction of the gas pipes to turn on the gas. If you don't see the valve, it is probably behind the fireplace. Look for it there and turn it on. Pull the fixed glass assembly off of the fireplace, if yours has one. This is an important safety precaution that prevents the buildup of gas should the pilot be hard to light.

  Note: If your fireplace has a secondary gas shutoff, make sure it is all the way open. These valves are typically located outside the fireplace (to the side or on the floor) and are operated with a special key.

  Lighting the Pilot

  Locate the gas control knob, which should have settings for "Pilot," "On," and "Off." Look around for a red or black button; this is the piezoelectric spark igniter. Press the button a few times to verify that there it creates a spark at the end of the pilot tube. This spark will ignite the pilot flame.

  Turn the gas control knob until the "Pilot" setting lines up with the arrow or hash mark on the outer rim of the control. Press and hold down the gas control knob, then press the igniter button multiple times, as needed, until the pilot flame ignites. Once the pilot lights, keep holding down the gas control knob for 20 to 30 seconds to allow time for heating up the thermocouple (a safety device), then release the knob so it pops back up. If the pilot doesn't light, release the gas control knob so it pops back up and stops the flow of gas. Wait 10 seconds, then repeat the lighting process until the pilot starts.

  Turn the gas control knob to the "On" position, then replace the fixed glass assembly and the decorative cover.

• What if I don’t have hot water?

  1. Check that a fuse hasn't blown or that the circuit breaker hasn't tripped. Replace with the appropriate fuse or reset the circuit breaker.
  2. Some properties also have Hydronic Furnaces. This means the heat comes from the hot water in your water heater. To be sure the hot water is getting to the furnace check the water valves going from your water heater to the furnace. They both need to be on (turned the same direction as the pipe). Sometimes the hot water valve is turned off in the summertime in order for the A/C to work at the highest efficiency. Properties with these systems include those at Garverdale, Tottenham, Wilson, and Cloverbrook. If you live at any of these properties please be sure to check your valves.
  3. Check to see if the pilot light is on. If it is not you can follow the directions on the water heater to relight the pilot light.

• How to change your furnace filter?

  1. Turn off your furnace before checking or replacing filter.
  2. Locate where the furnace filter is. (Often attached to the furnace or centrally located in a vent)
  3. Remove cover and replace air filter.

  As a reminder, one of your Resident Protection Package benefits is air filter delivery. The filter for your unit will be at your doorstep every 60 days! We ask that tenants change their filter as soon as possible once these are delivered.

• My air conditioning is not working

  Before calling in your problem or making a work order request, please check the below possible options:
  
  

  1. Go to your electrical panel to check that the circuit breaker hasn’t tripped. If so, reset the circuit breaker.
  2. Some AC units have a light switch right next to the furnace which turns the furnace and AC off. Because this switch is identical to a light switch, it gets turned off by mistake. Simply check any nearby switches. If they don't turn lights on and off, they may be turning the furnace and or AC on or off.
  3. Check the furnace filter – if the filter is dirty, it needs to be replaced.  If you are unsure, please take a photo and send it to me to review.
  4. Check the batteries in the thermostat. If there is anything indicating "Low Battery" on the thermostat, it needs to be replaced.
  5. Check the outside unit to make sure the fan blades are moving and that any pipes to the unit are not iced over.  If there is condensation or an excessive amount of water dripping from the unit, this is sign the system is being overworked.  Turn off all power to the system, including flipping the breaker, and contact us as soon as possible. 
  6. If the system is attempting to cool down, but it is one of the first times using the system this season, the AC temperature may be set too low.  Set the thermostat to cool, but only set the temperature about 2 degrees cooler than the interior of the unit (example – the temperature is reading at 80 degrees inside, set the thermostat to 78 degrees).  Watch to see if the interior temperature decreases.  If it goes down, try turning it down another 2-4 degrees to see if it gradually decreases.  Please be advised it could take up to 8 hours for the AC system to cool a 2 bedroom apartment down to the desired temperature.

  If you’ve checked all the above and you still do not have air conditioning, please submit an online maintenance request.

• No heat for systems using electric heat

  Before calling in your problem or making a work order request, please check the below possible options:
  

  1. Check that a fuse hasn't blown or that the circuit breaker hasn't tripped. Replace with the appropriate fuse or reset the circuit breaker.
  2. Check that your thermostat is on, heat is selected, and set at a temperature that would call for heat (not too low)
  3. Check that there is nothing obstructing the airflow from the heater or heater vents
  4. Electric furnaces, not baseboards or cadet heaters, often have a light switch right next to the furnace which turns the furnace off. Because this switch is identical to a light switch, it gets turned off by mistake. Simply check any nearby switches. If they don't turn lights on and off, they may be turning the furnace on or off.

  If after checking the above and you still do not have heat, please submit an online maintenance request. Within the request, please annotate the condition of your furnace filters and the status of any steady or blinking red lights.

• No heat for systems using gas heat

  Before calling in your problem or making a work order request, please check the below possible options:

  1. Check that a fuse hasn't blown or that the circuit breaker hasn't tripped. Replace with the appropriate fuse or reset the circuit breaker.
  2. In or around most furnaces there is what looks like a light switch. This operates the power to the furnace. Be sure this switch is on before completing the on-line maintenance request. You will be charged for the heating company to flip this switch.
  3. Check that your thermostat is on, heat is selected, and is set at a temperature that would call for heat (not too low).
  4. Verify that your gas service is in your name or has not been disconnected for non-payment or other issues.
  5. Can you hear any fans or blower running? If no noise at all, the problem must be one of the items above.
  6. Is there a window with a blinking or steady red light? If so, please explain what you are seeing if you submit a work order request.
  7. Are your furnace filters dirty? If so, replace immediately. Dirty filters are the cause of 95% of all heating issues. If your lease requires you to maintain your furnace filters and you submit a request for maintenance and your filters are found to be dirty, you likely will be billed for all charges. To avoid inconveniences of not having A/C or no heat, keep spare filters handy and replace them at a minimum of once every three months.
  8. Some properties also have Hydronic Furnaces. This means the heat comes from the hot water in your water heater. To be sure the hot water is getting to the furnace check the water valves going from your water heater to the furnace. They both need to be on (turned the same direction as the pipe). Sometimes the hot water valve is turned off in the summertime in order for the A/C to work at the highest efficiency. Properties with these systems include those at Garverdale, Tottenham, Wilson, and Cloverbrook. If you live at any of these properties please be sure to check your valves. Also check the temperature on the water heater and make sure it is not set to a low setting.

  If after checking the above and you still do not have heat, please submit an online maintenance request. Within the request, please annotate the condition of your furnace filters and the status of any steady or blinking red lights.

• How to unclog my drain

  The best ways to unclog drains can be done with common household items, such as hot water, or a mixture of vinegar and baking soda. You can also use a zip strip, which can be purchased at any home goods store if you weren’t provided one at move in. Use products like Draino as a last resort, as they are corrosive to older pipes with repeated use. You can also follow the tutorials below:

  • https://benjaminfranklinplumbingmi.com/2021/08/how-to-unclog-a-drain/
  • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wLKW0FnAVME
  • How to unclog a drain (includes using a zip strip and hot water, vinegar, and baking soda)

• Troubleshooting your dishwasher

  Symptom	Possible Solutions
  Dishwasher does not work - no sound, water or lights	Check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker Check that the dishwasher is plugged in securely or Check the door latch
  Dishwasher does not start but motor hums	Submit a maintenance request to First Rate Property Management
  Dishwasher does not fill with water or it drains while filling	Check that the water supply is turned on. The valve may be located under the sink. Check the door latch If problem continues, submit a maintenance request to First Rate Property Management
  Water does not drain from the dishwasher	Clean the drain Re-run an entire cycle and see if problem continues
  Dishwasher is leaking water or soap leaks around the door	Check your garbage disposal to make sure the drain is not clogged. Make certain that your detergent is intended for dishwashers. Do not use liquid dish soap. If problem continues, submit a maintenance request to First Rate Property Management.
  Dishwashers not cleaning properly	Get cleaning agent product from WL May called Glisten or Affresh cleaning tablets which can be purchased at Walmart, Lowes, etc. If you used the wrong soap in the dishwasher, please follow the steps listed here: External Link: I put the wrong soap in the dishwasher -- now what?
  Door does not close or latch properly	Check for obstructions Check the door latch
  Dishwasher cycle does not complete	Let the dishwasher complete the cycle wherever it is at, then re-start a new cycle and it should clear itself.
  Detergent cup does not open	Check and clean the detergent cup for obstructions
  Dishes are not cleaned adequately	Clean the drain screen Spray off dishes before using the dishwasher Run several cycles with no soap to clean out soap residue.

• How to turn off main water supply?

  Locate the cutoff valve closest to the fixture.

  Most fixtures will have an individual shut-off located beneath the fixture. It will likely be a chrome valve. Sinks and showers may have two valves, one for hot and one for cold. Turn both these valves clockwise until valve is closed.

  · Some appliances, such as washing machines, dish washers, and refrigerators, may have a water shut off switch on the body of the appliance or on the hose connecting the appliance to the wall.

  · To find the shut off for a water heater, look for a water cutoff valve directly above the heater on a connected pipe.

  Identify the main shut off valve.

  This is usually a brass valve that has a round handle. In most homes, it is located near the main water pipe leading into your home. Common locations for this pipe include garages, basements, crawl spaces, or a utility room. FRPM will provide this location before a new tenant moves into a vacant property.

  Always shut off the valve that's closest to the inside plumbing, as opposed to the valve that's closer to the street.

• Smoke Detector FAQs, Testing, and Maintenance

  Please regularly test your smoke detector and maintain with the steps listed here: External Link: Testing smoke detector / maintenance
  
  All properties have smoke detectors. Properties with gas burning appliances, a fireplace, or an attached garage should have a CO/Smoke combo.
  
  They are usually clearly labeled if they detect carbon monoxide as well as smoke/fire.
  
  Smoke detectors have 2 alarms that mean different things:

  1. Beep/chirp approximately 2-3 times every 5 minutes most of the time means the battery needs changed. If that doesn't fix it, it may have lost power to the unit or have a loose connection. If you unplug the detector from the ceiling/wall, it will probably continue making noise because there is a back-up battery in most of them. If you take the battery out it still has enough power stored internally to beep 4-5 more times.
  2. Beeping/chirping non-stop means there is smoke/fire or it's a false alarm.

  See below for false alarms:

  1. Most false alarms (chirping non-stop) are caused by dust in the sensor area of the detector. - Fixed by blowing out with compressed air or vacuum.
  2. Some smoke detectors have an expiration (10yrs for example & usually labeled on back of unit) and after that time period they start having false alarms. - Fixed by replacing expired detectors.
  3. Very rarely, false alarms are caused by drastic temp./weather changes, such as attic being 120 degrees and house at 75. - Fixed by pushing the silence button (if it has one) and after a short time it will reset and hopefully not falsely go off again.
  4. Very rarely, false alarms are caused by air blowing directly on the detector (open window, ceiling fan blowing upward instead of downward, etc.). - Fixed by redirecting air movement away from detector.
  5. Very rarely, false alarms are caused by a defective detector. - Fixed by replacing detector.

• Issues with Washer and Dryer

  • Regularly maintain your washer by running Affresh cleaning tablets as directed. Regularly maintain your dryer cleaning your lint tray.
  • Dryer TS: https://www.searshomeservices.com/blog/dryer-not-heating-5-diy-troubleshooting-tips-for-dryer-problems
  • Washer TS: https://www.searshomeservices.com/blog/common-washing-machine-problems
  • If you aren’t able to resolve the issue with the washer or dryer, please submit a maintenance request via the Rentvine portal. Please provide pictures of the issue if possible, as we can provide these for the repair.

• Refrigerator Issues?

  1. Make sure the refrigerator is plugged in securely.
  2. Check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.
  3. Test the power outlet for current.
  4. Inspect the electrical cord for damage.

  
  https://www.wikihow.com/Diagnose-Refrigerator-Problems

• Garage Issues?

  If your garage door isn't closing all the way, you may have a problem with the alignment of the sensors at the bottom corners of the garage door. This may occur if anyone has accidentally bumped into them. For a video of how to properly align your garage door, go to this link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gHIytLm0iAU

• We have ants/roaches/spiders or other pests.

  Per your rental agreement, treatment of household pests is the tenant’s responsibility. One way to minimize the possibility of pests is to keep a tidy home. Homes that are not so tidy, offer a food source as well as shelter for many pests. So if you discover any pests, your first step would be to do a thorough cleaning of the entire home. This eliminates the food source.
  
  If the problem continues, most grocery or hardware stores carry traps and sprays that should resolve your problem in a few days. We find that ant traps can solve the problem in just a few days. These traps are filled with poisoned bait. The reason the ants are in your house is because they found food. The ant trap baits them, then they take the poisoned food back to the nest and they die. Some of the sprays are very good for spiders, roaches, and bed bugs. If the problem continues, please feel free to contact us. We’ll have to do an inspection to make sure that the home is tidy and see what remedies you had already tried and failed with.
  
  If you are on the Resident Protection Package, your pest control needs are covered. Please contact the pest control vendor using the contact information provided to you at move in.